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Investment Overview for Estee Lauder (NYSE:EL)
Estee Lauder's Skin Care Market Share: Estee Lauder's Skin Care Market Share expanded from 6.6% in 2008 to 7.8% in 2012. However, its share declined to 7.6% in 2013, partly due to cannibalization of its older products and partly due to a shift in order realizations following its SMI implementation. The company posted a weak top line growth rate of 2.8% in the segment in CY2013. We currently forecast Estee Lauder's skin care product market share to decline marginally in the short term before beginning to grow its market share and reach 8% by the end of our forecast period. There could be a marginal downside of around 6% to our price estimate,if the market share were to remain flat throughout the forecast horizon.
Estee Lauder's Skin Care EBITDA margin: Estee Lauder's Skin Care EBITDA Margin increased from 20% in 2008 to 26.2% in 2012 before declining to 25.7% in 2013. We expect margins to see some downward pressure in the short term and reaching 24.9% before increasing back to 25.6% by the end of our forecast period. There could be a 14% downside to our price estimate, if margins were to decline to the 2008 levels of 20% over our forecast period.
Estee Lauder's Makeup Market Share: We currently forecast Estee Lauder to gain share in the global makeup market from 12.4% in 2013 to reach 13.5% by the end of our forecast period. There could be a marginal downside if Estee Lauder fails to gain market share over our forecast period.
Estee Lauder's Makeup EBITDA margin: Estee Lauer's Makeup EBITDA Margin increased from 19% in 2008 to 23% in 2013 and we expect it gradually increase to 24% going forward. There could be a 7% downside to our price estimate if margins were to decline to the 2008 levels of 19%.
Estee Lauder manufactures and markets premium makeup, skin care, fragrance and hair care products in the personal and beauty care segment of the market. Estee Lauder's main competitors consist of cosmetics companies such as L’Oreal, Shiseido Company, LVMH Moet Hennessey Louis Vuitton, Revlon, Coty, and Procter & Gamble Company.
Estee Lauder's major brands include Estee Lauder, Aramis, Clinique, M-A-C, Bobbi Brown, La Mer, and Aveda, along with fragrance and cosmetics sold under brands such as Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger, Micheal Kors, and Sean John.
Premium priced products that are not branded, yet relatively expensive, are sold through limited distribution channels consisting primarily of upscale department stores, specialty retailers, upscale perfumeries, pharmacies, prestige salons and spas, free standing company owned stores and spas, company websites, authorized retailer websites, stores on cruise ships, direct response television and in flight and duty free shops.
Despite a global presence, about 40% of Estee Lauder's net sales come from the Americas, with Europe, Middle East and Africa contributing 38% and Asia-Pacific constituting the remaining 23%. The company's increased focus on the Asia-Pacific market is expected to further increase
The Skin Care and Makeup segments have the highest contributions to Estee Lauder's value. Skin Care forms the priority category for the company, contributing more than 50% of Estee Lauder's stock value and Makeup contributes around 39%. The Skin Care segment is also the most profitable of all its beauty products, generating an EBITDA margin of 26%, compared to the company average of around 22%.
Market sizes and market shares in Skin Care Vs Makeup
The Skin Care category grew by 4.6% in 2011 and 3.2% in 2012 and we expect it to increase to 5% over the next few years. The Skin Care market is currently valued close to $100 billion and could cross $120 billion in the next five years.
In the Makeup category, Estee Lauder had a higher market share of 12.4% in 2013 (that increased from 11.8% in 2010), but the overall market size of the Makeup segment is about half of skin-care. The overall Makeup market is currently valued around $57 billion and could exceed $70 billion by the end of our forecast period.
Higher margins in Skin Care compared to Makeup
We estimate that Estee Lauder's skin care EBITDA margin was around 26% in 2013, compared to 23% for the Makeup business.
Strong prestige beauty sales growth in 2013
The global prestige beauty market grew in 2013 with the United States leading with sales growth of 5%, which significantly outpaced the mass segment sales growth. The prestige beauty segment generated sales of over $10 billion in the U.S. in 2013. The growth was a favorable mix of more unit sales and pricing growth.
Booming Skin Care due to anti-aging creams
Anti-aging creams and anti-cellulite skin care products are in high demand among aging populations in developed countries notably Japan (oldest demographic), US and Western Europe. Half of Estee Lauder's skin-care business comes from anti-aging products. The anti-aging market comprises of those products that can treat multiple signs of skin aging at one time, and is a fast-growing segment under the anti-aging beauty products. Estée Lauder launched its first global anti-aging cream in Europe in February 2012 and a China specific skin care brand Osiao in October 2012.
Growth of natural products categories and "Masstige" segment as well as male product lines
There is a growing demand for natural / organic products in most countries, a trend led by the developed markets in the US and Western Europe. Additionally, there is an increased preference for less synthetic, eco-friendly and more natural products and packaging.
There is a growing trend towards the so-called "Masstige", or premium brands sold at lower prices through mass distribution. In addition, beauty care products focused on men is the latest niche being targeted by most players globally. In developed markets, particularly in the US and Western Europe, the introduction and extension of the men’s product lines is a major source of growth.
Focus on travel retail
Estee Lauder has capitalized on the strong growth in its travel retail channel to capture the attention of travelers from emerging markets, who either buy in the channel, in stores at their destination or when they return to their homes. The channel has performed particularly well for Estee Lauder within Europe, Asia-Pacific, Middle East & Africa, generating double-digit net sales growth in fiscal 2014. The main drivers to the travel retail segment growth were: the launch of new initiatives, an expanded distribution network, an increase in global airline passenger traffic, and accelerated orders.
According to a report from Verdict, the global travel retail has quickly become the fastest-growing retail channel for beauty, fashion and accessory products. It is likely to grow to $44 billion by 2015, driven by expanding passenger volumes, especially in emerging markets. In particular, beauty sales are likely to grow by more than 80% in the next five years. Global Airport Retailing information for 2012 reveals that the Asia-Pacific airport retail spending stood at $12.2 billion, while spending in Europe was $10.6 billion and for the Americas $7 billion. By 2016, it is expected that the spending will reach $23.2 billion for Asia Pacific, whereas for the Americas and Europe the figures will be $10.1 billion and $12.4 billion, respectively.
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